Travel diary and indigenous gatherings

An Immersive Adventure of Sharing and Unforgettable Memories

Last summer I moved back to Eeyou Istchee Baie-James, my beloved home region, to take on a new role as Marketing Project Manager for Tourisme Baie-James and Eeyou Istchee Tourism. After ten years in Montreal, I was ready to help this land shine, a place I've always proudly promoted as its unofficial tour guide.

My first project? Organize a road trip with Bonjour Québec ambassador and photographer Olivier Langevin, his friend Samuel Angers, and Andrew Germain Gros-Louis from Indigenous Tourism Quebec. So, in July, Stéphanie (my marketing director) and I drove over 2,500 km with these strangers-turned-friends, sharing belly laughs, bags of chips, and unforgettable moments.

Between baking traditional bannock, tasting fresh whitefish, watching the northern lights, and admiring countless breathtaking views, our journey brought us straight to the heart of Cree culture, through two major annual gatherings: Mamoweedow in Chisasibi and the Old Bay Factory Gathering in Wemindji. These aren't just events: they're powerful celebrations where communities honor their history, Cree identity, and deep connection to the land.

Mamoweedow - Chisasibi ᒋᓵᓰᐲ

Picture an island. Not one with palm trees, but with towering spruce.

Once you step through the forest wall, small camps appear here and there, with large families gathered together.

Kids selling Mr. Freeze for $2, adults tossing bean bags, Elders carving wood. Tipis rise all around you, welcoming you with the scent of fir, Labrador tea, or roasting goose.

Wherever you drop your emotional baggage, someone will be there to greet you. A real exchange. No wristbands. No festival outfit. Maybe not even cell service. Just people taking their time and loving being outside.

After wandering around Fort George Island, I step into a tipi. Someone offers me tea. I lie down on a bed of fir needles, near the fire.

My body is tired — hours on the road will do that — but more than anything, I feel a deep peace.

I nearly close my eyes. There's no need to speak. No need to do. Just be.

Eventually, I rejoin my group. We stop by a man carving wood with a crooked knife. I ask him how long it takes, and he says:

« I don't count. There's no rush in the bush. » 

He lets the wind guide him. And I realize I should, too. He speaks slowly, his words full of wisdom. I listen. Fully. Time slips by without me noticing.

We end the day in another tipi, watching women prepare geese over an open fire. We laugh a lot with them. It's like they know: laughing makes life longer... And better.

When we finally head back, nobody knows what time it is. But we all know something special just happened.

Old Bay Factory WITH Winiipaakw Tours

The next day, we're up at 4 a.m.

We're heading to Wemindji for an eco-tour of James Bay with Winiipaakw Tours (yes, that James Bay!). When we arrive, it's still dark, a bit rainy, and no one's there yet outside the Maquatua Inn. No problem. We pour some coffee, huddle outside, and enjoy the stillness. One of those calm mornings where the excitement bubbles just beneath the raindrops.

While we wait for departure, we play a quick game of soccer. We've learned by now that in Eeyou Istchee Baie-James, time is flexible. What really matters is the moment, and the excitement of discovering a land, a flora, and a fauna we don't yet know.

As the boat finally launches, the sun peeks out like a green light from the sky. Excitement peaks. Out on the water, it's a horizon of endless blue and wind-swept waves. The adventure begins, and with it, endless possibilities. The captain asks what we hope to see. In perfect unison, we all shout: a polar bear.

For hours, we scan every rocky island, convinced we see white blurs in the distance. Seabirds fly beside us, like they're in on the mission. The sun begins to dip. So does hope. But it's fine. The cool breeze feels good, and our Cree guides fill our ears with stories and knowledge.

We decide to head over to Old Bay Factory for lunch: the island where the community of Wemindji was originally located. Every summer, families return here for a traditional gathering, and it just so happened that we showed up around the same time. On the way, we pass families heading back in small boats packed to the brim. Not newcomers, that's for sure.

We eventually land on this improbable little island. People are taking down the camp. Tired, but happy to see us. We're a bit disappointed to have missed the heart of the festivities: workshops, community meals, stories shared around the fire... But after two weeks of games and reunions, they've earned a well-deserved rest.

We snack a bit, explore the island, then begin our journey back. The wind picks up, like it's trying to keep us from leaving. But we feel safe with our guides. So safe, in fact, that most of us doze off, rocked by (not-so-gentle) waves.

The others retreat to the back of the boat. Not me. Partly because of seasickness, but mostly because... I mean, how often do you get to float across James Bay?

I hold onto hope that we'll still spot something. If not a bear, maybe a seal? A caribou? Who knows...

I stare at the horizon, completely lost (good thing I'm not the one steering). Andrew joins me. He's still hopeful too.

We approach a large island. Suddenly, two caribou appear — a mother and her calf. We shout in delight, like kids. They disappear over the hill. But here, we're not in a rush. We circle the island slowly, pass around the binoculars and then: SURPRISE. Right there, on a rock in front of them,

A POLAR BEAR.

Fast asleep. Cutest thing ever. 

We look at each other, hug, some shed a tear or two. Oli and Sam capture the moment while our guides, quiet but clearly proud, flash knowing smiles.

It's the kind of moment that proves: the beauty of a journey doesn't just lie in the destination. But damn, was that destination worth the wait.

A Truly Surreal Trip

This first project set the bar high.

Maybe it was beginner's luck. Or maybe just the magic of Eeyou Istchee Baie-James. Either way, the stars aligned (even the mosquitoes left us alone).

Since then, people have raved about the photos. Of course, Oli and Sam's talent plays a huge part. But more than anything, it was the warm welcome of the people of Eeyou Istchee Baie-James, our openness, our authenticity, our go-with-the-flow energy, and the time we gave ourselves that made this journey so memorable. And you can feel it in every image.

— Tania Savard - Marketing Project Manager

Cultural Gatherings to Experience in Eeyou Istchee Baie-James

Each summer, several Cree communities of Eeyou Istchee hold cultural gatherings on their traditional sites. These aren't tourist festivals (though all are welcome). They're heartfelt returns to ancestral places, where intergenerational knowledge is passed down, celebrated, and kept alive.

Old Nemaska Gathering

Nemaska - ᓀᒥᔅᑳᐤ

At the site of Old Nemaska (Nemiscau), families still gather to hunt, fish, and teach traditions.

The site includes an old school, church, cemetery, and the only known Cree rock painting site.

Mamoweedow

CHISASIBI - ᒋᓵᓰᐲ

Held on Fort George Island, Mamoweedow (which means “we gather”) is a summer highlight.

Family camps, cultural workshops, friendly competitions, dancing, and big communal feasts define this week of reconnection.

* Accessible by barge from Chisasibi

Old Factory Gathering

Wemindji - ᐐᒥᓂᒌ

Every summer, families from Wemindji return to Paakumshumwaashtikw (Old Factory Bay), the original settlement site. This 10-day gathering features Elder-led workshops, communal meals, storytelling, and reflections on heritage.

* Accessible by boat taxi or Winiipaakw Tours

Chiiwetau

Waswanipi - ᐧᐋᔅᐧᐋᓂᐲ

“Chiiwetau” means “let's go home.” This gathering takes place at the Old Post on Waswanipi Lake, the community's former trading site.

Paddle-making, hide-tanning, fire cooking, and Elder storytelling fill the days.

* Accessible by boat from Waswanipi

Smokey Hill

Waskaganish - ᐧᐋᔅᑳᐦᐄᑲᓂᔥ

In mid-September, families camp near Smokey Hill Rapids for the traditional whitefish harvest.

The vibe is lively: smokehouses, games, and ancestral fishing techniques shared with the youth.

* Accessible by road